Published October 26, 2026 · The Cricket Depot, San Antonio, Texas
"How many crickets?" is one of the questions we hear most often by text. There is no single right number, because a fast-growing baby and a mature adult have very different needs, and the same animal may eat more in summer than in a cooler month. What we can offer is a sensible range for each common pet and a way to fine-tune it by watching your animal.
The basic approach most keepers use
Two methods are common. The first is a timed feeding: offer appropriately sized crickets for a set window, often around 10 to 15 minutes, and let the animal eat what it wants. The second is a counted feeding: give a set number that has worked before. Many people start with the timed method to learn what their animal eats, then switch to a count.
Whichever you use, remove uneaten crickets afterwards. Loose crickets can stress a resting animal and, if they are hungry, may nibble on it. The right size matters too; a common rule is no bigger than the space between your animal's eyes. Our cricket sizes guide explains each size.
Bearded dragons
Young bearded dragons grow fast and are mostly insectivorous, so they eat a lot of insects and eat often. As they mature, their diet shifts toward vegetables and greens, and insects become a smaller part of it.
- Babies (roughly 0–3 months): small crickets, often fed in several short sessions a day; many babies eat a few dozen small crickets daily in total.
- Juveniles (roughly 3–12 months): medium to large crickets, usually once or twice a day, with the count gradually dropping as greens increase.
- Adults (over about a year): large or adult crickets a few times a week, often in the range of a handful to around a dozen per feeding, with salad making up most of the diet.
Adult dragons are prone to weight gain if insects stay high. See our page on crickets for bearded dragons for more.
Leopard geckos
Leopard geckos are insectivores throughout life, but they eat less frequently than baby dragons.
- Hatchlings and babies: small crickets daily or nearly daily, often a handful at a time.
- Juveniles: small to medium crickets every day or two.
- Adults: medium to large crickets every two to four days, often several per feeding.
The tail is a useful guide: a healthy adult usually has a tail that is reasonably plump but not wider than the head. More tips are on our crickets for leopard geckos page.
Tarantulas
Tarantulas eat far less often than lizards, and many go through long fasts, especially before a molt.
- Spiderlings: one or two pinheads or small crickets (or pre-killed pieces) once or twice a week.
- Juveniles: a cricket or two roughly once a week.
- Adults: one to a few large or adult crickets every week or two, depending on species and size.
Never leave crickets in with a tarantula that is in or near a molt. A freshly molted spider is soft and can be injured. If it refuses food, take the cricket out and try again later.
Frogs
"Frog" covers a huge range, from tiny dart frogs to large horned frogs, so portions vary more here than anywhere.
- Small frogs and froglets: pinheads or small crickets, often several at a feeding, daily or every other day.
- Medium species, such as tree frogs: small to medium crickets, a few per feeding, every two or three days.
- Large ground frogs: adult crickets in larger numbers, a couple of times a week, mixed with other foods your vet recommends.
Many frogs are prone to obesity in captivity, and some will eat whatever moves. Watching body shape is especially important.
Chameleons
Chameleons are active hunters and are commonly fed from a cup or by hand so the keeper can track what they eat.
- Babies: small crickets, often fed once or twice a day in modest numbers.
- Juveniles: small to medium crickets daily, with the count rising as they grow.
- Adults: medium to large crickets every other day or a few times a week, typically a handful at a time; females that may lay eggs can have different needs.
Chameleons are sensitive to supplement balance and hydration, so this species in particular benefits from a vet-guided plan.
Feeding tips that apply to every pet
A few habits help no matter what you keep. Feed when your animal is warm and active, which for many reptiles means during the day with their heat and lighting on. Offer crickets in a feeding dish or a smooth-sided container if your pet will take them that way, which reduces escapees. Keep a simple log of what you fed and what was eaten for a few weeks; patterns are much easier to spot on paper than from memory. Do not panic over a single skipped meal, since many animals eat less during shedding or seasonal changes, but do contact your vet if appetite stays low.
Signs you need to adjust
Watch your animal more than the chart. Leftover crickets at most feedings suggest you are offering too many, or the size is wrong. Steady weight gain, fat pads or a heavy-looking body in an adult suggest cutting back. Visible ribs or hips, a thinning tail in geckos, or lethargy are reasons to call your vet, since appetite loss can have many causes besides diet. Temperature matters too: reptiles kept too cool often eat little.
Whatever the count, quality counts as much as quantity. Well-fed crickets make better meals, so read our guide to gut-loading crickets, and keep your supply healthy with these keeper tips.