House crickets vs. banded crickets vs. field crickets: which feeder is which?

Published October 27, 2026 · The Cricket Depot, San Antonio, Texas · Choosing feeders

Most keepers start with whatever crickets their local store has in the bin and never think about species. That is usually fine. But if you have ever had one batch that was quiet and another that kept the whole house awake, or one that seemed to die off faster than another, species may be part of the reason.

This guide compares the main feeder crickets in plain terms. It does not try to crown a single "best" cricket, because the right choice depends on your animal, your household and what you can get legally and reliably where you live. We will be upfront about what we sell: we raise house crickets (Acheta domesticus), and that is the only species we ship.

Why the species matters at all

To a bearded dragon, a cricket is a cricket. To the keeper, small differences add up:

• Size range: how big the adults get decides which animals they suit at maturity.
• Noise: adult males chirp, and some species are a lot louder than others.
• Speed and jumping: faster crickets are more of a hunt for your pet, and more of an escape risk for you.
• Temperament: some larger crickets bite, which matters if crickets are left in with a sleeping or shedding animal.
• Hardiness: how well they handle shipping, crowding and the occasional mistake in your bin.
• Availability: what you can buy consistently, and what you are allowed to keep where you live.

Nutrition is often the first thing people ask about. In practice, feeder crickets of different species are broadly similar as a food, and what the cricket ate recently (gut-loading) and whether you dust it usually matter more than the species label. We are cautious about quoting exact nutrient numbers, because published figures vary with diet, age and testing method.

House crickets (Acheta domesticus)

The house cricket is the classic tan-brown feeder that many keepers grew up with. It is the cricket we raise and the one most of our articles are written around.

Traits

• Size: adults roughly 3/4 to 1 inch; sold in sizes from pinhead to adult. See our size chart.
• Growth: roughly seven to eight weeks from hatch to adult when kept warm, slower when cooler.
• Behavior: active and quick, a good stimulus for animals that like to chase, without being as large or bite-prone as the bigger field crickets.
• Noise: adult males chirp. Most people notice it, especially at night. Nymphs do not chirp.

Why many keepers choose them

House crickets have a long track record as feeders, a well-understood life cycle (see our cricket life cycle guide) and a size range that covers everything from hatchling geckos to adult bearded dragons. They gut-load easily and are widely recognised by pet owners, vets and keeper communities.

Drawbacks

Adults chirp, they can smell if a bin is neglected, and like all crickets they need a clean, ventilated setup to stay alive. Historically, some cricket farms have also been hit by disease outbreaks, which is one reason other species became more common in parts of the market. A good supplier and a clean bin go a long way.

Banded crickets (Gryllodes sigillatus)

Banded crickets, sometimes sold as "tropical house crickets" or under brand names, are a smaller, slimmer cricket with distinctive dark bands across the body. In some regions they became a popular alternative to house crickets.

Traits

• Size: adults are generally a little smaller and slimmer than adult house crickets.
• Noise: often described by keepers as quieter, with a softer chirp. That is a common observation rather than a guarantee.
• Behavior: very quick and good at hiding, which some keepers like and some find frustrating at feeding time.
• Hardiness: many keepers and sellers describe them as hardy. Some sources also describe them as less affected by certain cricket viruses than house crickets; we would treat that as something to ask your supplier about rather than a promise.

Drawbacks

Their slimmer build means a little less food per cricket at the adult stage, and their speed can make it harder for slower animals to catch them. Availability depends on where you live and who supplies your area.

Field crickets and two-spotted crickets (Gryllus species)

"Field cricket" covers several species in the genus Gryllus. The two you are most likely to see sold as feeders are the two-spotted cricket (Gryllus bimaculatus), a dark, almost black cricket with two pale spots at the base of the wings, and the Jamaican field cricket (Gryllus assimilis). Wild native field crickets also live across much of the US, but catching wild crickets is a different matter (see below).

Traits

• Size: adults are typically larger and heavier than house crickets, which can suit bigger lizards and large invertebrates.
• Noise: adult males are often loud. Many keepers find them the noisiest option.
• Temperament: large field crickets are more likely to bite, both each other and a resting pet. Removing uneaten crickets matters even more.
• Behavior: strong jumpers. Some keepers find them less prone to climbing smooth walls than other species, but that varies.

Drawbacks and caveats

Their size and bite make them a poor match for small or delicate animals. And because some Gryllus species are not native to the US, they can raise legal and ecological questions in some places. More on that in the availability section.

Side-by-side comparison

A quick summary, written in general terms. Individual batches vary with diet, temperature and age.

Legality and availability: check your state rules

This part matters, and we want to be careful about it. Rules on moving, selling, keeping or releasing live insects can come from federal agencies, state agriculture or wildlife departments and sometimes local authorities. Those rules can differ by species and change over time. Some non-native crickets may be restricted or require permits in some places, and shipping live insects across state lines can have its own requirements.

We are not able to give legal advice, so our honest recommendation is:

• Check your state rules (usually your state department of agriculture) before buying or breeding an unfamiliar species, especially a non-native one.
• Ask your supplier what species they sell and where they ship it.
• Never release feeder crickets outdoors, whatever the species. Our crickets in nature article explains why.

For our part, we ship live house crickets within Texas only, which keeps trips short and crickets healthy. Details are on our shipping and guarantee page.

What about catching wild crickets?

It is tempting: crickets are free in the backyard. But wild crickets can carry parasites and may have been exposed to pesticides or lawn treatments, and you cannot easily tell which ones are safe. We generally recommend against feeding wild-caught insects to pets. Our article on wild vs. farm-raised crickets covers the risks in more depth.

Do they need different care?

The good news is that the basics are the same for every feeder cricket. All of them need a ventilated container, egg crate or similar hides, a dry food, safe moisture they cannot drown in, and regular removal of dead crickets and old food. Our cricket bin setup guide applies to all of them.

Where species differ is in the details:

• Lids and gaps. Small, fast banded crickets and house cricket pinheads can slip through gaps that hold big field crickets easily. Use fine mesh and a tight-fitting lid.
• Space and protein. Larger, more aggressive crickets are more likely to bite each other when crowded or underfed. Extra egg crate and a steady protein-containing feed help.
• Noise management. If adults are loud, store the bin away from bedrooms, or feed adults first and keep nymphs for later.
• Temperature. Tropical-origin species may be less tolerant of a cool room. If you keep a species you are not familiar with, ask your supplier what temperature range they suggest.

Whatever you keep, a short daily check (remove dead crickets, refresh moisture, look for mold or a strong smell) catches most problems early. If you are losing more crickets than you expect, our why crickets die guide walks through the usual causes.

A few common myths

"One species is far more nutritious"

You will see strong claims online. Published nutrient figures for feeder insects vary widely with diet, age and lab method, so we avoid quoting numbers. What reliably improves any cricket as a meal is good gut-loading and the supplements your vet recommends.

"Quiet crickets never chirp"

Adult males of chirping species chirp. "Quieter" means softer or less frequent, not silent. Buying younger nymphs is the surest way to a quiet bin.

"A cricket is a cricket"

For your pet, mostly true. For you, the differences in size, noise and biting can make one species a much better fit for your household than another.

How to choose for your animal and household

A simple way to think it through:

1. Start with your animal's size. Use the eye-gap rule (no longer than the space between your animal's eyes). Small or young animals generally do better with smaller species or smaller sizes; see feeding crickets to pets.
2. Think about noise. If crickets will live in a bedroom or apartment, consider buying nymphs (which do not chirp) or quieter options, and feeding adults first.
3. Think about biting. For animals that sleep where crickets roam, avoid large, bite-prone crickets and always remove leftovers.
4. Think about consistency. A reliable supplier with steady quality usually matters more than species.
5. Think about rules. Choose a species you can legally keep and get reliably where you live.

Want to compare crickets with other feeder insects entirely? See crickets vs. dubia roaches, mealworms and black soldier fly larvae.

Why we raise house crickets only

We decided early on to do one thing well. Raising a single species means we know its growth timing, can offer the same five sizes (pinhead, small, medium, large and adult) reliably, and can pack and ship it in a way that matches its needs. For most of the animals our customers keep, house crickets cover the whole size range they need.

If you are not sure whether house crickets suit your animal, call us at (210) 461-9760 and tell us what you keep. For anything about your animal's health or diet, your vet is the right person to ask.

Frequently asked questions