Feeding crickets to your pets: lizards, frogs, spiders, birds, fish and chickens

Published October 27, 2026 · The Cricket Depot, San Antonio, Texas · Feeding your pet

Crickets are one of the most widely used feeder insects because so many different animals will eat them: lizards, frogs, toads, tarantulas and other spiders, many insect-eating birds, a lot of fish, and backyard chickens. The basics are the same for all of them (right size, good nutrition, safe feeding), but the details vary a lot.

This guide gathers those details in one place. It is written for keepers, not as veterinary advice. Every animal is different, and the right diet depends on its species, age, size, health and setup. Use the guidance here as a general starting point, and talk to a vet who knows your type of animal before making big changes. For portion ideas for five of the most common pets, see our companion article on how many crickets to feed.

The basics that apply to every animal

1. Sizing: the eye-gap rule

The most widely repeated rule of thumb is simple: offer crickets no longer than the space between your animal's eyes. Feeders that are too large can be hard to swallow and may raise the risk of choking or impaction. For animals where that rule is awkward to apply (spiders, fish, chickens), choose a cricket that is clearly smaller than the animal's body or mouth and watch how it copes. Our size chart lists the length of each of our five sizes, and cricket sizes explained goes into more detail.

2. Frequency: young eat more often

As a broad pattern, babies and juveniles of insect-eating species are usually fed more often than adults, because they are growing. Adults of many species eat less frequently and some do better with fewer insects and more of other foods. That is a general pattern, not a schedule. Your vet can tell you what suits your animal.

3. Gut-loading

A cricket that has eaten well for a day or two before feeding carries more nutrition into your pet. See our full guide to gut-loading crickets.

4. Dusting

Dusting means lightly coating crickets with a supplement powder (often calcium, calcium with vitamin D3 or a multivitamin) just before feeding. Put a few crickets in a cup or bag with a small pinch of powder, shake gently and feed straight away. Which product and how often depends on your animal, its age and its lighting, and too much of certain vitamins can cause problems. This is a good question to put to your vet.

5. Safety

• Remove leftovers after about 15 minutes. Hungry crickets can nibble a sleeping or shedding animal.
• Feed a few at a time rather than tipping in a whole cup.
• Use farm-raised crickets. Our article on wild vs. farm-raised crickets explains why.
• Never feed crickets that look sick or come from a bin with lots of dead crickets.

Bearded dragons

Bearded dragons are probably the most common reason people buy crickets. Young dragons are typically fed more insects, more often, than adults, and adult dragons generally eat a larger share of greens and vegetables. Many keepers offer insects in short sessions and let the dragon eat what it wants in that time, rather than counting exact numbers.

• Size: babies usually need small crickets; juveniles commonly move to medium; adults often take large or adult crickets. Always check the eye-gap rule.
• Dusting: dragons are one of the species where vets commonly discuss calcium and vitamin D3 alongside UVB lighting. Ask yours for a schedule.
• Watch for: overfeeding insects to adults, which some keepers find leads to weight gain.

More detail: crickets for bearded dragons.

Leopard geckos

Leopard geckos are insectivores, so insects make up their whole diet. They tend to be calmer hunters than dragons and often feed in the evening.

• Size: hatchlings need very small crickets; adults commonly take medium to large. Geckos have small heads for their bodies, so stay conservative.
• Feeding: many keepers offer crickets a few at a time from a dish or tongs, or release a few into the enclosure and remove any not eaten.
• Variety: many keepers rotate crickets with other feeders. See our feeder insect comparison.

More detail: crickets for leopard geckos.

Other lizards

Many other popular lizards eat crickets as part or all of their diet, including various geckos, chameleons, anoles, skinks and young monitors. Needs vary a lot:

• Chameleons often hunt from branches and may need crickets offered in a cup or released where the chameleon can see them. Many keepers pay close attention to hydration and supplementation; this is a species where vet advice is especially valuable.
• Small geckos and anoles usually need small crickets and can be overwhelmed by too many at once.
• Larger lizards may take adult crickets but often need a much broader diet than insects alone.
• Mostly plant-eating lizards (for example adult green iguanas) are generally not fed insects as a staple. Check before offering.

Frogs and toads

Most pet frogs and toads are insect-eaters, and crickets are a staple for many of them, from small tree frogs to large horned frogs and toads.

• Size: frogs often have wide mouths and can try to swallow surprisingly big prey. Stick to the eye-gap rule anyway, and go smaller for froglets.
• Feeding style: many frogs respond to movement, so lively crickets help. Some keepers use tongs for frogs that feed from them.
• Water: crickets that fall into a water dish can drown and foul the water. A shallow dish and prompt removal help.
• Dusting: amphibians commonly receive supplements too; ask a vet with amphibian experience which product and how often.
• Skin care: amphibians absorb substances through their skin, so avoid handling frogs with powder or lotion on your hands.

Tarantulas and other spiders

Tarantulas and many other pet spiders eat crickets well. Spiders do not need dusted crickets in the same way reptiles often do; many keepers simply feed gut-loaded crickets.

• Size: a common guideline is prey no bigger than roughly the spider's body (excluding legs). Spiderlings need pinheads or small crickets.
• Frequency: spiders usually eat far less often than reptiles. Adults of many species can go a long time between meals, and many stop eating before a molt.
• Molting danger: never leave a cricket in with a molting or freshly molted spider. A spider is soft and defenseless during and shortly after a molt, and a cricket can injure it. If a spider refuses food, remove the cricket.
• Other invertebrates: scorpions, mantises and centipedes are fed in similar ways, with similar molt cautions.

Birds

Many insect-eating birds, including some softbills and finches kept in aviaries, take live crickets, and some keepers offer crickets as an occasional treat or enrichment. Breeding birds may be offered more insects while raising chicks. Needs vary widely between bird species, so check with an avian vet or an experienced keeper of your species.

• Size: small crickets suit small birds; larger birds may take medium or adult crickets.
• Presentation: a smooth-sided dish helps stop crickets escaping into the aviary.
• Wild birds: if you feed backyard birds, offer only clean, farm-raised crickets and in modest amounts.

Fish

Many larger aquarium and pond fish will take a cricket off the surface, and crickets are a classic fishing bait. A few points:

• Size: choose crickets clearly smaller than the fish's mouth.
• Treat, not staple: most aquarium fish do best on a diet designed for their species, with insects as an occasional addition. Ask your aquarium vet or specialist store.
• Water quality: remove any uneaten crickets quickly, because a drowned cricket breaks down and fouls the water.
• Fishing: keep crickets shaded and cool in a ventilated cricket cage and they will usually last the day.

Backyard chickens

Chickens love chasing crickets, and many keepers use them as a treat and for enrichment. Crickets are best seen as a supplement to a complete layer or grower feed, not a replacement for it.

• Size: adults happily eat adult crickets; chicks can manage smaller sizes.
• Amount: many keepers keep treats of any kind to a modest share of the diet so hens still eat their balanced feed. Ask a poultry vet or your extension office if you are unsure.
• Presentation: scattering a handful in a run gives foraging time; a shallow pan reduces escapes into the garden.
• Rules: if you sell eggs or keep birds for food, check any local rules on feed.

Three ways to offer crickets

How you present crickets can matter as much as which ones you buy. Most keepers use one of three methods, and many switch between them.

Free-roaming

You release a few crickets into the enclosure and let your animal hunt. This gives good exercise and enrichment, especially for active lizards and frogs. The downside is that crickets can hide in décor and substrate, escape notice and later bother your animal. Release only a few at a time, watch the session, and count what is left.

Tong feeding

You offer one cricket at a time with soft-tipped feeding tongs. It lets you see exactly how much your animal eats and works well for shy or slow feeders, and for animals you are monitoring for a vet. Take care not to let your animal strike the tongs hard.

Feeding dish or cup

A smooth, steep-sided dish holds crickets in one place so they cannot wander off. Some keepers chill crickets slightly first so they move less; if you do this, keep it brief and never freeze them. A dish is handy for leopard geckos, chameleons (in a cup fixed to a branch) and birds.

Whichever method you use, a short, supervised session followed by removing leftovers is the safest habit. It also makes it easy to notice early if your animal's appetite changes, which is useful information to share with your vet.

Common feeding mistakes

1. Crickets too big. The most common error, and the easiest to fix. Size down.
2. Leaving crickets in overnight. They can bite, stress or injure resting animals.
3. Empty crickets. Crickets that have not eaten for days are a poor meal. Keep them fed between deliveries; see keeping crickets alive.
4. Guessing at supplements. Too little and too much can both cause trouble. Ask your vet.
5. Only one food. Many insect-eaters do better with some variety. Your vet can suggest what fits.
6. Ignoring changes. If your animal stops eating or seems unwell, contact your vet rather than changing food again and again.

Quick reference by animal

A summary of the starting points above. Sizes are general suggestions; always check against your animal.

Frequently asked questions